Eagle Ridge - Lochnagar

Yesterday (21st Feb) John McCune and myself climbed the classes Eagle Ridge (VI, 6) in Lochnagar.

2nd Pitch - Eagle Ridge

We had asked about conditions of the route but no one had been that way.  What we didn't want was unconsolidated snow as this was meant to make it quite hard going.  The approach was promising with bullet hard neve requiring crampons.  Unfortunately the steeper the approach the more unconsolidated the snow was. Not letting this get in the way John headed off having climbed the route in summer and knowing the line (pictures of topos on iphones isn't always a great idea!).

We both ended up with 4 great pitches.  Pretty much all of the cracks were filled with snow and it gave for quite a bit of clearing and what felt like swimming at times.  The route is currently in but a small freeze thaw would do it the world of good.

It was John's last route after 6 weeks in Scotland.  Great way for him to end his trip!

Alpine Conditions in the Scottish Highlands......

Gargoyle Wall

Indicator Wall

It has been a pretty intense few weeks up in the West Highlands.  Here are a few words I wrote for the Alpkit lads!



www.alpkit.com/daring-deeds/classic-week-on-the-ben

Last pitch on Orion Face Direct

The last few days with John McCune have been very good as well.  All routes high up on the Ben are in excellent conditions with light winds and very much alpine conditions.  I will let the pictures do the talking..........

The panoramic from the top of Ben Nevis

Lochnagar tomorrow for Eagle Ridge hopefully!