Monday 27 February 2012

Northern Corries


Walking into Corrie an T-Sneachda the main issue was too find suitable remaining snow and ice for Dan and Mathew to get there first taste of Scottish winter climbing. Blinkers were advisable but it turned out to be very pleasant, dry and sheltered from the wind.

Mathew enjoying his first ice pitch

Gloom in Sneachda


Sunday 26 February 2012

Two Step Corner - Ben Nevis

 Conditions had to be seen at first hand as reports of the ice hanging in gave hope for the coming weeks. John McDonald drove north and I felt under pressure that we would be able to climb something the next morning. The weather wasn't that inspiring but up the track we headed into the mist and wettness.
Arriving at the snow line which is now at the base No5 gully we trundled our way upwards into the mist. We arrived at the base of No3 gully buttress and straight away decided that mixed wasn't on so went direct to Two Step Corner V 5.
The ice although thawing was surprisinly good and gave us some great climbing but without the views. I think the faces have had a little protection from the driving rain so should hold in for another while.





Watch out for those cornices if mild!

Working with Tollymore NOC this coming week so updates re conditions as and when.

Monday 20 February 2012

Go East - Wettness in the west

Incessant rain, warm temperatures prompted an early start and drive to the Cairngorms. We were greeted in Corrie an Sneachea by a little bit of blue skies and buttresses white. Paul K, Simon P, Paul S & Ronnie had our MI youth group for a days climbing before the Uber thaw.
All managed a good route and the thaw followed us up the crag. Whiteness disappeared as we climbed.

This is the down side to Scottish winter as a lot has now stripped and the continuing rain and very mild temperatures may cause a major dipletion of the snow pack. Will report back later in the week.



Sunday 19 February 2012

Intruder VI 7 - Corrie Nan Lochan

These are the days when climbing is a real joy. Fresh snow had coated the buttresses and after a leisurely start and coffee in Pauls camper Paul, Ronnie and good friend Simon Patton walked into Stob Coiire Nan Lochan under clear blue skies.

Our lazy start didn't allow us to get on our first choice route but Intruder VI 7 didn't disappoint. Great climbing and very social.

Team PSR with the line just left of the skyline on right

Paul Pitch 1

We will be working with a youth group from Mountaineering Ireland. Unfortunately the weather forecast doesn't look promising so we hope to be away early to try and catch any conditions.

Saturday 18 February 2012

Winter ML Success

On Friday 17th February I successfully passed his Winter ML.  There are no cool pictures as it was an assessment but there is one of the dripping wet snow hole!  It will be posted shortly.

Ronnie and myself are in Scotland and hoping to climb tomorrow!

Ciao from the Nevis sport cafe!

Tuesday 14 February 2012

CWA Training for Tollymore

Over the weekend Chris, Leah, Ryan & Stephen from Queens University M.C went through a Climbing Wall Award training. I was working for Tollymore National Mountain Centre and we spent two days at the Queens wall in Belfast going over many topics to prepare them for an assessment in the months ahead.

Friday 10 February 2012

4 days in the Scottish hills!

I am currently over in Scotland and with 4 days on the trot I have opted for a rest day today.  The last few days have been excellent with 3 Quality Mountain Days and one day climbing with John Orr and Jonny Parr.

Cairn Toul and Angel's ridge

The conditions at the start of the week were amazing. I had a big day out with Mikey taking in the Braeriach horseshoe and descending the Angel's Ridge.  We started and ended at the sugar bowl car park and had the joy of returning through the Lairig Ghru.  The next day we headed into Corie an t'sneachda for some winter skills refreshing and then a plod over the top to take in the summit of Ben Macdui.  The weather for these two days was amazing!



On Wednesday I had planned on heading into Shelterstone crag with the two Jonny's but the strong SE winds we sacked that and ended up at the Mess of Pottage for a bit of mixed.  We ended up on Pot of Gold (V,6) taking a pitch each.  Quality climbing with some amazing hooks in places.  It was good crack climbing in a 3, it meant you had someone to suffer with at the belays!

J. Parr starting the second pitch of Pot of Gold (V,6)
With the temperatures going above the summits I cruised West with the lads and ended up on a nice grade II ridge in Glencoe.  Sron na Lairig a bit of a classic and nicely exposed in places was a good shout.  With me getting ready for my winter ML and Jonny for his MIC we both got something out of the day.

The top of Sron na Lairig


Just chillin today and sorting myself out in Fort William before I head back across to the East tonight for a few days in the Cairngorms then assessment time!

Skiing in the Cairngorms anyone?

Friday 3 February 2012

Photo Update - Scotland

I've just got some more photo's through from the last few days climbing in Scotland.

 Neandrathal VII 7 pitch 3 (Lost Valley Buttress)


 Neandrathal VII 7 pitch 3

                Tilt VI 7 (Stob Coire Nan Lochnan)                


Sioux Wall VIII 8 (Ben Nevis)

Thursday 2 February 2012

WML success

Great news from Hugh who I had been working with a few days ago. He passed his Winter ML, so many congratulations to him!

If the team at Rock & Ride can be of any assisstance whether for advice or skills developement get in touch we are only to pleased to be of any help.

Wednesday 1 February 2012

Sioux Wall - Ben Nevis

The weather forecast was too tempting so Jon and I dragged ourselves up the Ben track after 7 and 6 days out on the trot. Tired legs but clear skies helped dissolve the pain.

We had thought after yesterdays trip into the Ciste we might try a harder line opposite Darth Vader.

Sioux Wall VIII 8, regarded as a test piece and certainly didn't let us down on that score.
Superb technical and steep climbing of the highest calibre.
 Jon Pitch 3

 Ronnie Pitch 2

Posted by Ronnie

Darth Vader, Ben Nevis & Star Wars

Ben Nevis was in splendid condition and Jon Orr and I headed up the track hoping for the chance to get on a route. We thought the Ben would have been very busy given the weather and conditions and were pleasantly surprised to have free route choice.

Hankering back to Star Wars days we choose Darth Vader VII 7. Three superb pitches and the best belay in the winter climbing world.
We had decided on this route because the winds were a bit more fierce on other faces and this gave quite a bit of shelter.
 The route follows the dark gash above