Wow it has been quite a while since I have blogged, not that I have been sitting about doing nothing but work has been very busy. My week in Spain with Mountaineering Ireland and the kids went very well, a quick week to Lanzarote for Noddy's wedding (
www.noddygowans.com) and flights booked to San Fran for 3 weeks scaring myself on the big stone - it has been fairly busy over the last while. Ian has also been flat out and his TCL in June is full - happy days!
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Salango in a ONER! |
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The fear! Abbing in for the first time this season! |
With Yosemite only 4 months away training has started properly this week. I managed 2 runs this week to stiffen the legs up and a cracking day at Fair Head yesterday. The technique of double ropes is very popular in the UK but not so much in North America, they quite often use a single rope for most routes. Now both have advantages and disadvantages and I will not go into them in detail. Our tick list for the states consists of routes that are mostly climbed on a single rope so yesterday at the head we opted for a 70 m single.
My personal opinion is why would you climb with double at Fair Head? No need for a 60 abseil and most people have 100m to ab in with, 90% of the routes follow cracks and 99% of the gear is bomber! 10 years ago at University it seemed trendy to climb everything on double ropes but at the head there really isn't a lot of need. A single rope gets rid of FAFFING and no twists at belays! Personal opinion only of course - each to their own!
For our training we also decided to get our early season trad heads on and do everything in one pitch. This was great fun and in a few hours we had managed to tick Titanic (E2), Salango (E3), Ocean Bulovard (E3) and Mizen Star (E2).
Thanks Marshall for a brilliant day just climbing and revisiting the old classics from years ago!
I also came across this blog last night, sonnietrotter.com/roadlife/. The 'what's his secret' section is worth a read. It is sort of cool to read that some of the top climbers don't just live for the next route and get so self obsessed with training - they just climb because they enjoy it!