The 20th July had me flying out to the alpine mecca of Chamonix in the heart of the French Alps and home to the highest peak in the Eastern Alps, Mt Blanc. Unfortunately Chamonix is renowned for unsettled weather in the summer due to soaring afternoon temperatures, so when I rocked out there and saw a 5 day yr.no forecast with settled weather I knew I had to acclimatise quickly!
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| The NE Spur |
That evening Guy Steven joined us after a big weekend in London, a bit sleep deprived but full of psyche! Guy agreed to head with us to the NE spur direct on Les Droites the following morning. The route takes in 550m of rock climbing to a breche, followed by 500m of mixed ice climbing to gain the summit at just over 4000m. The rock passed smoothly with block leads being the most efficient system with 3 people. We had always planned on taking a bivi at the breche, but upon arrival we were keen to keep pushing and after a quick text to the Orr we had the beta that there was a better spot higher up. Unfortunately the temperatures were not on our side and the ice was as good as sugar! We took an uncomfortable night's bivi on the breche with the plan to climb the ice the next morning when it had frozen. Kenny ventured out in the morning for a look but temperatures at 3500m didn't get below 0 degrees so the decision had to be made to abseil the whole route! Getting down took longer than getting up so 9 hrs and 3 stuck ropes later we were back at the base of the route. Even though we had to bail it is a good confidence boost to know you can get yourself off routes such as the NE spur.
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| Kenny checking out the SUGAR |
With the weather still holding and the Walker out due to the early season snow we opted for the traverse of the Chamonix Aiguilles. The route takes in the sky line on the Mt Blanc side of the Chamonix valley. Starting from the Midi Plan we soloed the traverse and bivied down at the top of the Plan. The next day was fantastic with some excellent rock climbing, exciting abseiling and surprisingly straight forward route finding! The descent from the Aiguille de Blaitiere down the Spencer couloir was unpleasant and with damp ropes we managed to write off a few biners (see pic) but thanks to Kenny we managed to negotiate the Nantillion Glacier and bed down after a 20hr+ day.
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| Guy styling on the Chamonix Aiguilles |
John Orr then arrived out from North Wales and with a mixed forcast and a few texts we packed up in Chamonix and cruised to Saas Grund. The lifts were free as long as you camped, so for John to get acclimatised it was the perfect place to go. We ticked off some 4000m peaks and some AD ridges before heading back to Chamonix, then onto the Ecrin where the weather was still holding out.
I had always wanted to climb the South Pillar of the Barre Des Ecrin. It is described as a classic in the guide and from pictures the line is very inspiring. I had also heard rumours that is was loose in places, I do not think that 'loose' is the most accurate word as most of the route is falling down! The line is cool and it probably is a classic for the Ecrin, but you won't catch me on it again. You can imagine the relief on gaining the summit!
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| Top of the Barre, those are smiles of relief! |
After a few days of chilling and another cracking 5 day window in Chamonix we got packed and psyched for the Peuterey Intergral onto Mt Blanc. It is the longest ridge in the Alps with over 4500m of height gain, but on arriving at the Borelli hut we were greeted by over 20 other people who had the same intention as us, the Integral. This didn't sit well with either of us so after we got in the line at the start of the route, being hit by gear, rocks and nearly people, we abbed off the start of the route and away from the circus.
The trip ended with a few days cragging on the Chamonix Aiguilles with John Orr and John Mccune; a great way to end a brilliant 3 weeks in the Alps.
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| Chamonix sunset |
Alpkit kindly supported me for this trip with a Filo Down Jacket and Pipeline 400 Down Sleeping Bag. It was the first alpine trip I have been able to climb with a 35L rucksack. It felt light, the kit packs down really small and I was warm and comfortable every night even at 4000m. They design their kit around the needs of climbers and mountaineers with a price that is even affordable to students! It is a pleasure to work with these guys and I am gutted to be missing out on this years Big Shakeout, but I could be going to worse places...........................
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| Modelling the Alpkit Filo. Photo John Orr. |
Finally, a massive thanks also to Ally Swinton for the crib in Cham, I will return the favour when you come to Fair Head!
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